Coming tree planting. And he is preparing in advance. After a while picking apples in autumn. This work should be well prepared. Have built the ladder enough boxes, soft, preferably polyethylene, unhooked the bottom of a basket and put the yield – properly prepared in the basement. Cellars and other rooms where they will be considered as fruits, disinfected and išbaltinamos. Where a species is non-residential premises, it can be disinfected by burning sulfur, but in all other cases, spraying fungicide – 1 percent. production of iron, iron or copper sulfate solution. Sprayed and consumed at the same time, boxes, shelves.

Before winter nudažykime water pipes, fences, gates.

This month begins with frost, which the gardener must prepare for it. Before the start of the frost-sensitive removes them vegetables, tomatoes, cucumbers, dumplainius, ankštpipirius, courgettes, zucchini, squash, custard squash. Tent and a small tomato fruits, especially those who are slightly off-white color. They will ripen long-mi. Cucumber skins and smaller, because all the storage for the winter – tanning, marinating. Higher pakanda frosts and haulm, so they cut and harvested potatoes. Request, which has made not rot potato. than seed or food. Best to store potatoes nešiltame en-syje. If the basement during the winter dry and warm, the potatoes can be considered Spooler, trenches or pits specially equipped. Best cellars to store boxes filled potatoes. It is time to rot potato-ing. Kaupo, trenches or pits as potatoes loaded thin layer. Harvested potatoes at once to fill warehouses. Keep them at temperatures from 12 to 15 days. Then heal wounds caused by mining, tubers prepare for the sleep period. Transformed seed of improved varieties of potatoes.
At the end of the month starting digging carrots, beets, other root vegetables. When you start to form heads, cauliflower cultivation to harvest and ending seedbed or in greenhouses. Polyethylene greenhouses growing vegetables žiemyninės. Power of determining the carrier, the handle greenhouses and prepare for the winter. Remove the film wears out, whole-separate pieces, which can still be used. Heated greenhouses grow tomatoes, vegetables žalumynines. Removing the root vegetables, selects characteristic of the breed the healthiest and most beautiful, not too large roots and keep them pasodams. Select more beautiful seeds of cucumbers, tomatoes and other fruit vegetables. Hybrid vegetables used in different parent varieties, mainly grown in seed purposes only.

After removing the vegetable harvest, Perkasie suariame or land. Pies that takes away all the seed

weeds that neišplatintumėm to their seed. Šakniastiebines, šakniaatžalines and other vegetatively propagated weeds elect, perkasdami plowing tręšiame organic and mineral fertilizers forforo and potassium. Manure in autumn tręšiame cabbages, cucumbers, potatoes for the land at 40-80 kg/10 m2. If the soil is sour replacement or medium acidity, we can chalk it before apariant. Collect vining bean supports, tomato pin, we can help them next season. Over-harvested compost.

In September, the most convenient time to keep old flowers and new installations. The multi-annual flowers grow in one place 5-6 years, so long šluoteliniuš growing phlox, astilbes, monardas better for transplanting. Older plants are blooming less and monardos grown long in one place starts to disappear. In the absence of opportunities for graft, it should be, cut off part of the earth, the flowers pamulčiuoti peat or kerelius pour 5 cm soil layer, as long they grow like kereliai come to the surface. To prepare flowers or reconstruction need not be delayed because the plants are transplanted late lag and more sensitive to root iššalti. Recently, frequent admire rare forms of conifers. Of these combinations are made or dwarf conifer species combined with perennial flowers. In planning for groups of conifers in the gardens, well, think about their heights and growth rates, since it will depend on planting distances and the location of individual species. Such groups are better suited to slow-growing dwarf types and forms. Most junipers are planted, the various forms of tujos, puskiparisiai. Sometimes due įkomponuojama mountain pine. Accents can be a Picea pungens. Reload garden plot, close is not worth me.

This month, the collection of annual and perennial flower seeds.

Do not forget to dig tuberous begonias time. This should be done before a stronger frost. Stems cut above the tuber 5-6 cm. The tubers are slightly padžiovinami and swept-mi. Placed in boxes for the winter, the stratification of the peat, as 5-8 ° C room.

Tuberous begonias sometimes have to dig is not fully mature, then they are seated in their boxes and complete vegetation. After the tubers to harvest a few days, dried and cleaned. At the end of September must be planted narcissus Jacinto since then planted root lag, difficult winter. Time for planting leukoją, egg, garlic, ornamentals, early tulips.

Nevėluokime egg planting its roots in early releases, which damaged vegetation, because plants are harder to grow poorer and prigyja. Let us not forget tigridijų dig it climates outside our nežiemoja. Tigridija excavated at a later date, together with leaves and earth. Withered leaves, onions gently removed, without distinguishing between them and the small bulbs until spring kept the sand 3-5 ° C. The children are separated from the parent plant prior to planting.

Alstremerijos usually grown in a greenhouse, they are grown in one place for two years. Replanting in September and October. Carefully extracted by roots and distributed in a way that after 2-3 holes. So-dynamo 2-3 of 1 m2. Root of the neck his lesson 5 cm soil layer. While root crops, greenhouse temperature should be 16-18 ° C. Watered moderately warm water.

Alstremerijas and can be grown outdoors, but be very careful camouflage, protect, does not undermine a stronger frosts in September. Cold winters may iššalti.

Ground parts of perennial flower cutting, flower beds are cleaned, irises pamulčiuojami peat, as the uncovered roots and plants can hide little blossom.

September in the second half of the Sodi-house roses.

tomatoes

Tomatoes:

South America is considered to be the homeland of the tomato. With the discovery of America tomatoes quickly spread to Europe, where they were soon named “love apples”. Such a name was given to the tomato in regards to its external smoothness, beautiful shape and color. From Spain and Portugal tomatoes quickly spread to Italy and France and other European countries such as Russia. However, for a long time tomatoes were grown only as ornamental plants. In Germany tomatoes were considered indoor plants and were grown in pots. In France they decorated arbors, and England and Russia were growing tomatoes in greenhouses among other rare plants.
In 17th century many thought that the tomato fruit was inedible and claimed that it cause nausea and vomiting. In 1811 Germany a botanical dictionary was published which stated that although tomatoes were considered poisonous, Portugal and Bohemia appreciated tomatoes in terms of their pleasant sour taste.

Now, tomatoes are grown and consumed by almost everyone. More than two thousand varieties of tomato culture are created nowadays. In England, France, the Netherlands and some other Western European countries tomatoes are grown only in greenhouses while in Lithuania they are grown both outdoors and in greenhouses.

Tomatoes:

Tomato bears an undeniable importance to human nutrition. The chemical composition of the tomato fruit varies accordingly to its variety and growing conditions. Tomatoes contain 5-9% of dry matter, which makes 3-7% sugar, and 1% malic and citric acid; protein, vitamins Bi, B2, B3, PP, pro-vitamin A, iron, sulphur, iodine and other agents, which increase the body’s resistance to many diseases. The annual rate of tomatoes per person should not be less than 20-25 kg. It was previously believed that the tomato is a source of oxalic acid, which consumed by large quantities affects the metabolism negatively. Therefore, people who have become of age have been advised to avoid tomatoes in their daily diet. Now it is known that amount of the oxalic acid in tomatoes is even lesser than the amount of it in potatoes or beetroots. Tomatoes are now recommended for the people of different age. Tomatoes can be used for food in different ways: fresh, cooked, fried, marinated. It is an important ingredient in making various vinaigrettes, condiments. Juice and paste which were made from the tomato retain all fresh fruit characteristics.

Tomatoes are high in vitamins and potassium salts, thus it is recommended for those with bad metabolism or suffering from heart and vascular diseases. It has been discovered that tomatoes contain phytoncidic properties too. Crushed tomato fruit or its juice can kill some germs which cause the fester of wounds. It has been discovered that fresh tomato paste is more nutritious than the juice.
Tomatoes are very susceptible to growing conditions. Optimal temperature should be 18-30 ° C. Once the temperature falls below 15° C, tomatoes stop blossoming. And once the temperature falls below 9 ° C – they stop growing. The temperature rise above 30-32 ° C results in thinning of the tomato leaves and forks. Blossoms start to fall out. At -0.5 ° C, plants may die. Young and poorly rooted tomatoes are more sensitive to low temperatures. Tomatoes which were gradually bred at lower temperature are more resistant to chilly weather.

Tomatoes are very demanding to light so you shouldn’t plant them among trees. Young sprouts of tomato require especially good lighting. The soil must be fluffy and fertile. In light sandy loams tomatoes will only fit well once they are fertilized with rich organic manure and mineral fertilizers.
When growing tomatoes outdoors you can be assured with a wealthy crop if you spray plants with 1% of Bordeaux liquid 2-3 times a day. When spraying for the first time you should wait until 2 weeks after the sub-planting of seedlings have passed, and then repeat spraying every 10-14 days. Tomatoes mustn’t be sprayed 8 days before the fruit picking.

Growing tomatoes in greenhouses.

Tomatoes should be sown once the soil’s temperature at a depth of 10 cm is higher than 15 ° C. Density depends on the variety and growth time. For early harvest you should plant in higher density and limit the number of inflorescences on a plant. On average, 3-5 tomato sprouts are planted into one square meter. Tall varieties of tomato are planted rarely meanwhile reduced growth (lower) varieties- more frequently. Plant in rows. For tall plants you must leave 0.8 m of space between rows and 0.3-0.4 m between plants, meanwhile for the lower species 0.6-0.7 m of space must be left between rows and 0.3 m between plants. Lower varieties of tomato start to yield a good harvest earlier.

Firstly, let’s make wells in the soil and pour some water in them. Once the water is absorbed you should start planting. Tomato seedlings can be planted slightly deeper than they used to be grown before (it is important not to bury the leaves with soil). Overgrown tomato seedlings should be planted horizontally. Within 4-5 days after planting tomatoes, attach a string to wires that are attached to the top of the greenhouse. After, tomatoes must be rotated around the string at least twice a week. Once the plants are tied up, you should mellow their soil frequently but not deeper than 2-3 cm.

Side shoots should be trimmed off when they are no longer than 4-5 cm. If you start trimming too late, the yield will be not only poorer, but also delayed.
Tall varieties form a single mast. In order for plants to grow and mature faster you should nip off the top above sixth or seventh bunch, leaving 2-3 leaves above the last raceme. To get a greater yield from limited growth tomato varieties, we can shape them either with two peaks or a single-pole. But you should prolong the height of the plant for the upper-leaf lateral sprout to be able to grow freely.

Tomatoes should be watered rarely but abundantly especially on the first half of the day. The temperature of water must not be colder than 20 ° C. Avoid pouring water over leaves. After watering is done, ventilate the greenhouse. Tomatoes are not afraid of draughts, so ventilate intensely. Intense ventilation creates better conditions for tomato flowers to pollinate. Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants and do not require the help of insects. However, if you slightly shake the wires tomatoes are attached to twice a week, you will increase the chance of plants getting impregnated. The best hours to do this procedure are from 11a.m. to 2p.m.

Once the first bunch of fruit starts to ripen, pick off the leaves that touch the ground. In order for tomatoes to be growing normally one plant should have 15-20 leaves on it. Profusely leafy tomato varieties should be stripped off of the lower leaves because it creates better ventilation for the plant. Nevertheless, you shouldn’t pick off more than 2-3 leaves per week. In low-leafed varieties of plants only yellow and diseased leaves should be picked off.

If necessary, put some extra fertilizer. The soil should be watered before fertilization. Different phases of tomato development require different fertilizers. From the beginning of the growth until the establishment of fruit on the first ring beam, tomatoes require less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus fertilizers. Once the fruit starts to grow it needs more nitrogen, and once it starts to ripen – more potassium fertilizers. When putting extra amounts of fertilizer, you must take into account the current climate conditions (weather and soil temperature, lighting, etc.). It has been established that once the soil temperature rises from 12 to 18 ° C, tomatoes tend to absorb phosphorus 8 times better. On misty days when lacking light, tomatoes require fertilization with more potassium. The increased amount of potassium fertilizer during the ripening period results in better growth and improvement in taste.
When adding extra fertilizer, its concentration can be up to 0.5% (50 grams to 10 1 water). Except for nitrogen fertilizer which must not exceed 0.2% (20 g in 10 1) in concentration.
If the root system of a plant is weak, you will achieve better results with fertilizing through leaves. In this case, the concentration of the solution for spraying young plants must be 0.15-0.2% (15-20 g per 10 1). For spraying grown-ups use the solution of 0.25 – 0.30% (25-30 g per 10 1) concentration. Tomatoes should be sprayed with the fertilizer solution on a gloomy day, preferably on the first half of the day so that leaves manage to dry off before the evening. Fruit should not stay on the plant for a long time. Instead, it should be picked off as soon as it begins to ripen and left to finish ripening indoors. Fruit must be picked off 2-3 times a week.
Diseased fruit should be collected and carried away from the  greenhouse. Tomatoes.

]]> http://www.mygardencare.com/tomatoes/feed/ 0 http://www.mygardencare.com/how-to-plant-tomato/ http://www.mygardencare.com/how-to-plant-tomato/#comments Wed, 19 May 2010 22:30:14 +0000 Garden http://mygardencare.com/?p=12 Tomato is the most commonly grown plant in backyard vegetable gardens today. You need at least two tomato plants per family member. Start your tomato patch by purchasing healthy transplants at your local garden center or over the Internet.

Tomato is one of the best plants for container gardening and it thrives with raised bed gardening techniques. For container gardening, patio hybrid, cherry tomato, dwarf or bush varieties are best since they are compact, with hybrid patio variety being the most common. Those grow two-three feet tall. However, container gardening works for any tomato variety – just choose your container size to fit the mature plant’s needs.

First, choose your location to plant and prepare your vegetable garden plot. I recommend composted manure worked into the soil to 6 – 8 inches. You may need to add limestone or sulfur to your soil as well – do a soil test to find out. Tomato plants need at least 6-8 hours of sun daily – full sun is best.

“Hardening off” means to expose plants to the elements in small increments to get them acclimated to new growing conditions. This transition period can be 1 week – 10 days, depending upon climate and weather conditions. Put the transplants in dappled shade, and bring them in at night. Gradually allow full exposure to outside elements. Plant seeds six to eight weeks prior to the last frost date. In hotter climates, plant when temperatures cool in autumn.

Dig a 10-16 inch deep hole.

Gardening Tips:

–Insert the transplant into your hole, and bury the tomato stem (not just the root) up to the second true set of leaves (snip off the others with scissors.) Fill your hole with compost-amended soil and firm down.

–Another method to establish vigorous roots is plant the tomato in a trench on its side. It grows straight up, and dozens of small roots shoot out from the stem’s “hairs” into the soil.

Wire Cages

My favorite vine tomato support is the easiest: wire cages which you buy from any garden supply center. Simply position them over the plant, insert them into the ground and you’re good to go. The tomato vines grow straight up, need no weaving and shade the ground to keep it moist.

Other supports include wood stakes and twine, trellises, teepees, or plant alongside an existing fence …

Wood stakes and twine

Put stakes that are 6 feet, 1 or 2 inches wide, every 3-4 feet between your plants, at both ends of the rows, and down the center. After they grow 1 foot, tie twine to the end post 1 foot above the ground. Wrap the twine around each pole down the row. When you reach the end, come back up the other side. As plants grow, weave through the twine.

Gardening Tips :

• Water plants after transplanting. Water in the mornings daily unless it rains. Blossom-end rot results from under-watering. Keep soil moist but not soggy.

• Feed with 10-10-10 fertilizer (or choose your own brand.)

• Mulch to retain moisture.

• Hoe/cultivate shallowly to avoid disturbing roots.

Tomato Diseases and Pests

Tomato Diseases and Pests

Disease. Phytophthorosis. Caused by potato blight (Phytophthora infestans (Mont.). De baryon). Brown spots appear on the leaves, stems, but most of them appear on the fruit itself turning it into mottled brown. Spots have blurred edges and hard consistency, may vary in their size. The fruit that is infected with phytophtorosis will also be brown on the inside. Spots on leaves are irregular, gray-brown and often with a lighter periphery.
To protect tomatoes from phytophtorosis you should avoid planting tomatoes near potatoes. Once the first symptoms of the disease appear on potatoes, tomatoes must be sprayed with fungicides too.
Leaf Blight of Tomato and Black Fruit Rot.
Disease is caused by early blight (Alternaria solani Sor.; Macrosporium solani (Eli. and Mart).At first small, brown concentrated spots appear on the lower leaves. Spots spread rapidly and converge with one another covering the most part of the leaf while it finally it withers. Fruits can be infected with early blight through the mechanical injury. The rotting part of a fruit collapses and becomes dry. Seeds can get infected from the fruit itself too. For the protection from disease plants should be sprayed with fungicides.
Septoria Leaf Spot of Tomato. The disease is caused by the tomato septoria (Septoria lycopersici Speg.). It usually infests tomatoes which are grown in the field, but occasionally the disease can spread among greenhouse tomatoes too. Signs of the disease: bright spots on the leaves, which cause the leaf to wither fast. To protect tomatoes from Septoria leaf spot you should use fungicides.

Brown Tomato Leaf Mould. The cause of the disease is the fungus Fulvia fulva (Cladosporium fulvum Cooke). Firstly, yellow blurry spots appear on greenhouse tomato’ leaves; then, the bottom half of the leaves where spots are located, starts to develop gray and brown mushroom coat on it. When the disease faces favorable conditions to spread (96% humidity and 22-25 ° C) the number of such spots increases a lot causing leaves to wilt.
During the vegetation greenhouses should be well ventilated so that the relative humidity in them would not exceed 70-75%. When first signs of the disease appear tomatoes should be sprayed with fungicides immediately, in such a way where
chemicals could enter the lower side of leaves.

Tomato Diseases and Pests

Viral Diseases – Mosaic and Stripe. Mosaic is caused by the potato virus X (Solanum virus-1 (Orton) Smith). Infected leaves, especially the upper ones, often become mottled (areas of lighter and darker shade of green and yellow), sometimes even deformed – develop a curved edge, the surface of the leaf becomes uneven.
Stripe pathogen: the tobacco mosaic virus (Nicotiana virus 1 (Mayer) Smith), cucumber mosaic virus (Cucumis virus 1 (Doolitle) Smith), potato virus X (Solanum virus-1 (Orton) Smith). Not only leaves but also stems, leaf-stalks and fruit develop symptoms of it. When infected with stripe, leaf veins often darken. In some cases dark, necrotic and asymmetrical spots will appear on the leaf. Leaf-stalks and stems develop brown, linear streaks. Fruits can be spotted with brown stains too.
Stripe is considered to be one of the most dangerous viral diseases of all which infect the greenhouse tomato. For it may cause a total destruction of the harvest. Tomato Diseases and Pests
Viral pathogens spread with the seed. They are easily transmitted from one plant to another: while looking after tomatoes (by trimming and binding the tomato) and the insects. Pathogens winter in infected crop residues and weeds.
To avoid the tomato virus only healthy seed should be sown. It is advisable to spray tomatoes with skimmed milk, which is diluted with water in a 1: 10 first. Tomatoes should be sprayed three times: before re-planting them into bigger jars, before planting them into soil and 5 – 7 days after.

Tomato Diseases and Pests

Pests. Potato Moth (Hydroecia micacea esp.). Its caterpillars sometimes damage the tomato plants in both greenhouses and fields. Ann average adult moth is usually stout: tank wings are brownish-purple with darker transverse lines, while rear wings are plain, yellow-grayish. Moths fly at night. Caterpillars tend to be 30 – 40 cm long, brownish in color with longitudinal red lines and black dots in rows. Have a reddish brown head, 8 pairs of legs. Caterpillars harm the tomato by gnawing paths on the inside of the stem. Affected plants wither and die. Attacks of caterpillar increase massively on June, when tomato plants are transplanted into fields. Pupal winter in soil. During the year 2 generations develop. Security measures: liming acidic soils, adding fertilizer to plants, blanching tomato seedlings. You should also heap the lower part of the stem with the soil, root out and destroy damaged plants immediately.
Tomato Diseases and Pests

Growing Raspberries

Growing Raspberries.

Site selection and planting.

Raspberries are self-pollinating, therefore they can grow and fit in individually sown varieties. However, the yield is usually greater in those areas where 2-3 different varieties of raspberry grow. Raspberries can be planted in between rows of fresh garden as well as they can breed nicely in the shade under trees. It is important that raspberries grow in one place, so that they are easier to maintain.

Raspberries are planted in a row approximately 40-60 cm away from each other. When grown in several rows, raspberries must maintain a distance of about 150 cm on between the. In less fertile land raspberries are planted more densely, whereas in richer soil – less frequently. Before planting of raspberry seedlings, small holes of 30 cm in width and depth must be dug in the soil. Seedlings are planted 5-6 cm deeper than they used to grow in the past. Each plant is set with 2-3 kg of manure or compost, which is then mixed with the earth excavated from the pit. After planting the soil is compressed and watered with 5-6 liters of water. After the water has been absorbed, the soil can be mulched.
Stems of planted raspberries must be truncated 20-30 cm in height. If the stems are truncated just a little or not truncated at all, even though raspberries are consistent during the first year already, they produce little new sprouts in the future.
Raspberry gardens must not be overgrown with weeds. In autumn, the soil should be re-scooped, digging 5-8 cm in depth near the plants, and 12-15 cm where raspberries grow further. While re-scooping the ground, we remove unnecessary offspring of the raspberry at the same time. In the spring we mellow the ground with the spud stripping off raspberries from unnecessary rootstock weeds. By the time of berry gathering the ground should remain being mellowed and stripped off weeds daily for 2-3 times. You must weed again after the post-harvest again. At the end of August the ground should not be mellowed anymore in order to prepare raspberries for the winter.

Growing Raspberries

Raspberries tend to grow especially well when they are fertilized every year with 4 kg of organic fertilizer, 40 g of ammonium nitrate, 60 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt per 1 square meter. Organic fertilizer, phosphorus, potassium and one-third of nitrogen fertilizer are poured into the soil in the autumn once the soil is re-scooped, and the rest of the fertilizer is poured in the spring. Raspberries acquire most of the moisture during months of May, June and July. In times of drought raspberries should be watered with 50-60 liters per 1 square meter.
After the harvest of crops stems and weaker offspring are cut off, leaving 10-12 sprouts apart from each other in 15-18 cm.
The easiest way to grow raspberries is in lines of 30-50 cm in width. Such kind of lines should contain 15-20 pieces of well-developed stems in one meter. In spring, just before the beginning of vegetation, raspberry scapes are cut, leaving them 160 cm in height.
While growing raspberries in rows, it is advisable to install trellis. For that matter, every 4 meters columns up to 150 cm are embedded. To those columns crossbars of 30-50 cm in length are fixed (fixed according to the length of the rows). Crossbar ends have wire stretched and attached to them. Lush raspberries should have 2 rows of wires attached to them in height of 70 cm and 150 cm. For more shabby raspberries you can use wires attached only 120 cm in height.
Obsolete gardens of raspberry are renewed by removing old shrubs with roots and fertilizing the area with organic manure. If you continue to renew raspberry gardens every 5-6 years, they can last as long as 12-15 years of growth in the same place. Growing Raspberries

cucumbers

Cucumbers:

India is considered to be the homeland of cucumbers. Even nowadays you can find wild cucumber growing there. It has been estimated that India started growing cucumber as early as 3^rd millennium BC. Both Greeks and Egyptians loved cucumber. Drawings of cucumber and grape remain painted on their sanctuary frescos until nowadays. The ancient Romans would grow cucumbers in their greenhouses all year round and after they would ferment them in barrels in exactly the same way as it is done now. To European countries cucumber spread from Mediterranean coastal states. On the contrary to most European countries, to Russia it was brought from East Asia. In the beginning of the sixteenth century our country’s agricultural literature was already enriched with the knowledge of cultural cucumber. People from different counties all soon came to love cucumbers for their mild flavor and pleasant aroma; therefore, there were no obstacles for the even greater spread of cucumber.

Now cucumber is spread all over the world. People grow cucumbers both in fields and greenhouses which makes it available of consumption all year round. Cucumbers are used fresh or can be mixed with other vegetables (onion, tomato, radish, parsley) when making salad. Stuffed cucumber is often used as a second dish. It is popular among housewives to fermentate, marinate and preserve cucumbers as well as cooking cucumber soup. On summer time Lithuanian Cold-borscht with additions of cucumber is the most favorite soup among all. Cucumbers are not very nutritious. They contain 97% of water, celluloid, nitrogen and nitrogen-free elements, up to 148 mg% of potassium salt and little vitamin D, Bi, B2, PP and pro-vitamin A. Even though they are not very nutritious, cucumbers improve the appetite and help the body to assimilate fat and protein better. Eating marinated cucumbers and pickles result in the increased activity of digestive gland which produces secretion. Therefore, people who are predisposed to obesity should avoid eating cucumber at any cost.

Pickles are not recommended for patients with gastric and intestinal diseases and atherosclerosis, hypertonic illness, liver and kidney diseases and those with a heart defect.

Fresh cucumber is very beneficial for those who suffer from chronic constipation. It also stimulates the bladder, forcing the release of urine and gall; therefore, making the cucumber juice the most recommended treatment for swellings which appear due to heart disease. In folk medicine fresh cucumber juice is used as a sedative and pain-reducing drug.

Cucumbers

is very much appreciated by the beauticians. Its juice can be used to clean the face of the pigmented spots and tan, freckles or acne. For oily skin it is advisable to make a face lotion from one glass of fresh grated cucumbers poured with a glass of vodka. After two weeks have passed, the liquid in the glass should be filtered through gauze and then applied on the face. For dry facial skin you should mix equal parts of boiled water and cucumber juice and then add a teaspoon of glycerin to the mix. Cucumber juice refreshes the skin well too, so during the summer when strong body perspiration is unavoidable, you should rub your skin with some cut cucumber.

Cucumber growing conditions are quite demanding seeing as cucumbers are very receptive to heat and humidity. Cucumber seeds begin to grow at 13-14 ° C degrees, but they are more likely to grow faster at the temperature of 25-30 degree Celsius seeing as it is the best temperature for plants to grow and develop. Once the temperature falls below 15 ° C, cucumbers stop developing at all. If the temperature stays so low for a longer period of time, the womanly blooms of cucumbers start to fall. When the temperature drops down to 10 ° C the late development of cucumber is impaired, while once the temperature falls to 0.5 ° C the plants perish.

Cucumber roots are weak and mainly located on the surface of soil. That is why you must maintain the optimum moisture content. The moisture plays an important role during the flowering and coherence time in particular. At that time, if the soil is parched cucumber blossoms and rudiments of fruit begin to crumble, fruit gets deformed and their quality drops down as cucumbers become bitter, unpalatable. Nevertheless, cucumbers do not like soaked soil either, that is why they need to be watered often but in moderation. The best relative air humidity for cucumbers is around 90%.

Cucumbers should be sown on the second half of May once the soil is warm enough (10 cm deep – about 16 ° C). If sown in cold soil seeds tend to swell and rot.

The holes where seeds are inserted should be 3-4 cm in depth and contain gaps of 4-5 cm between them.

Growing Cucumbers in the Greenhouse

Once the temperature of soil reaches at least 16° C you may begin planting cucumber seedlings in depth of 10 cm in rows from 0.9 to1.2 meters. Gaps between plants should very from 20 to 25 cm. Firstly, the ground should be watered. After small holes are made, they are filled with water. Once the water soaks in the seedlings have to be planted into holes at the same depth that they were grown in pots. Within 2-3 days after planting, cucumbers must be attached to a wire with a string that is stretched at the height of 2.0-2,2 meters. Binding techniques are shown in Figure 16. After some time has passed cucumbers should be rotated around the string once or twice a week, their whiskers and diseased leaves should be removed. Decayed outer leaves must be picked off once the petiole decays completely.

Soil surface should be mellowed no deeper than 2 – 3 cm to prevent the damage of roots. Soil must be watered in the mornings with water of 20 – 25 ° C. Before flowering and once the flowering has begun you should cut down on watering, meanwhile during the period of yield starts you should water the plants more.

Whether or not you should use the additional fertilizer you can decide after agrochemical analysis is done and results are carried out. Unfortunately it is not affordable for everyone so you can try and decide whether you need to use more fertilizer or not judging from the characteristics of a plant.
In the absence of nitrogen fertilizer cucumber leaves tend to lighten and gain a yellowish tinge, especially the leaves which are located below. Fruits are small and scarce, the growth slows down. Cucumber stems are thin, hard and hairy.

In the absence of phosphorus fertilizer, foliage is small, blue-greened. Plants grow slowly, are weak and all fruit rudiments and blossoms fall out.

In the absence of potassium fertilizer, leaves are small even though rich in dark green color. Edges of leaves are pale yellow, later on turning into brown.

In the absence of magnesium fertilizer, leaves become pale meanwhile veins of leaves remain green.

If you notice signs of a lack of fertilizer in cucumbers, you should put some extra manure that contains elements which plants are lacking. The concentration of mineral fertilizer in the solution should not exceed 0.5% (50 grams to 10 liters of water).The concentration of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate or other) in the solution must not exceed 0.2% (20 g/10 l ). Right before fertilization the soil must be watered.

Cucumbers do not like drafts, thus only windows at the top of the greenhouse should be opened up for ventilation. Ventilation must be done with the condition of air temperature never dropping below 22 ° Celsius.

Cucumbers are cross-pollinating crops, so in order for them to get pollinated they require the help of bees and other insects. With the exception of homogeneous cucumber variety which does not require any outside help for pollination. To attract bees to your greenhouse you should pick some flowers from blooming bird cherry trees and soak them somewhere in the greenhouse. Branches of alder suit too. If bees do not come anyway, female cucumber rings can be pollinated with a help of a hand. It can be acquired by picking men’s ring, tearing away its petals and then touching 2-3 female flowers (those that already have some rudiments of fruit) on their pistil with the stamen. Cucumber yield should be harvested every other day, in the meanwhile picking and removing the diseased fruit from the greenhouse too. Cucumbers.

]]> http://www.mygardencare.com/cucumbers/feed/ 0 http://www.mygardencare.com/strawberry-cultivation-how-to-grow-strawberry/ http://www.mygardencare.com/strawberry-cultivation-how-to-grow-strawberry/#comments Sat, 08 May 2010 07:27:53 +0000 Garden http://mygardencare.com/?p=18 Strawberry Cultivation

Strawberries are a valuable culture; their berries ripen on the first summer half when there are not enough mingy fresh fruit and vegetables yet. After planting has been done, strawberries should be consistent in growth for the first year, while for the second year a good yield should be expected.

The berries are tasty, have a lot of valuable substances, vitamin C, P active compounds, folic acid, coumarin, iron, phosphorus, sugar, acids. They can be consumed fresh or frozen, used in addition for jams and wine.

Soil Preparation

Strawberries can be grown in large number of soils; however, they are best suited in weakly acidic (pH 5-6) sandy and light moderate loam.

Strawberries can grow in one place for several years, therefore, when breeding them it is important to eliminate the multi-annual weeds, decompose (if any) the turf and well-fertilize the soil.

If it is expected to plant strawberries in the summer, black fallow is kept from the spring, and if the planting takes place in spring – black fallow is kept from the middle of last summer or all year round. After leaving the black fallow resting, each of its square meters are immediately fertilized with 6-8 kg of organic fertilizers (manure, compost or decomposed peat), 60 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. Once the fertilizer is released all over the place, the soil is plowed or re-scooped 30 cm in depth. After that, up until the planting of strawberries the soil has to be mellowed several times. When late to manure, fertilizer should be spread and the soil re-scooped at least 2-3 weeks before planting.

Planting

In our country strawberries are usually planted at the end of summer (from August to mid-September). If there are seedlings, strawberries can be planted in July too. The earlier strawberries will be planted, the greater increase in yield can be expected in the first year. Late-planted strawberries should be covered carefully before the winter. They can be planted in early spring too once the ground is dry enough.

For the planting healthy sprouts from specific parental strawberry gardens are taken. If the acquisition of seedlings is little, next year they can replicate themselves. Varietal plants should be well composted with mulch or peat and watered. Sprouts grow best in the first-year strawberry gardens but it is also suitable to plant seedlings in a second-year strawberry fields. Strong and well-rooted plants are planted permanently into fixed place, while weakly rooted ones are planted in densities (5 × 10 cm) to very well prepared soil, must be often irrigated and only once they are well-entrenched, they can be transplanted to the permanent location.

In areas that never get sodden it is advised to grow strawberries in flat, smooth soils. Strawberries can be planted in a single row or you can use a double-row and triplet strip method. When planting strawberries in a single row, the most common width of gaps between rows that is used by majority of amateur gardeners is 60 centimeters, while the distance between rows of plants – 20 centimeters (1 m² – 8 bushes of strawberries).

When growing strawberries in a bar-way you must leave gaps as large as 70 cm between the strips. While growing strawberries in a double-rowed way gaps between rows in bars should be 40 cm and between plant rows – 20 cm wide (when planting 10 seedlings into linear bar meter). When cultivating strawberries in a triplet-strip way, gaps between rows must extend to 30 cm, and rows in-between plants – to 25 cm (12 sprouts per 1 linear meter). Rows can be placed across the bars too.

In soils that are ever soaked, beds must be made for strawberries where their seedlings could be planted in a double-row or in a triplet-strip way.

You can use the perforated black polyethylene film that is 120 cm in width. For the planting we make holes which are 6 cm in diameter and arranged in a triple-band way. This film prevents the sprout of weeds, helps to suppress moisture, avoid the spread of gray mould; it also maintains a higher soil temperature, protects berries from soiling. Plants that are mulched with film grow better, lusher and give 30-36% higher yields. Their fruit ripening process starts 3 – 5 days earlier. When laying the film, the soil must be properly smoothed. Finally, edges of the film are pressed against the ground.

When planting seedlings, you must beware of the soil burying the core. The neck of the root (the place at which the root moves to the stem) should be at the same level with soil surface. The roots can not be allowed to ride up to the top either. If they are longer than 5 cm they should be shortened before planting.

After planting, seedlings are immediately watered (half a liter of water per seedling). If the air is dry, they should be watered twice or thrice again. To avoid the crust of soil and the vapor of water, it is advisable to mulch freshly watered seedlings with the peat, humus, or at least strew them with dry earth.

Maintenance and Fertilization

Strawberry patch that was not mulched with film must be mellowed during vegetation period and freed of weeds 4-6 times. During “wet” years it must be done 5 – 7 times. The soil in rows should be mellowed 3-4 cm in depth, and in between rows 6-8 cm on summer, 12-15 cm during fall. It is not necessary to weed and mellow a field that was mulched with film.

In the spring old withered leaves must be raked and burnt because they contain pests and disease origins. If, before the flowering of strawberry or during it a frost is expected, strawberry stumps must be covered with straw. For the Berries to not get spoilt if they were not mulched with film, straw or moss should be placed under inflorescences. When seedlings are not necessary, strawberries are permanently disposed of whiskers. You can leave just one seedling or so in order to thicken rows.

Before planting strawberries are fertilized well; following the directions of: fertilizing the growth of the first and second year only with nitrogen fertilizer using 10 grams of ammonium nitrate per 1 square meter (in early spring) and 10-20 grams – after the harvest. Too much of nitrogen can result in lush leaf growth and reduce yields. Then, because of the profusion of nitrogen, it may be necessary to mow down the leaves immediately after the harvest. On the year 3-4 (if strawberries are less potent then even on the year 2 of growth), after the harvest, in addition to nitrogen fertilizer 30 grams of superphosphate are poured into 1 m² of the strawberry patch. Following the process of fertilization with 15 g of potassium chloride or 30 g of potassium-magnesium fertilizers.

If during the time of vegetation humidity is low, strawberries should be watered as follow: once or twice before blooming, 2- 4 times during the process of ripening and once the rudiments of soft fruits appear, and 2 times after the harvest takes place. Single rate for watering is 2-3 buckets of water to 1 square meter. The before-mentioned amount of fertilizer can be increased slightly for such kind of strawberries.
For the protection against diseases and pests in old strawberry patches, the leaves are cut and burnt either during, or immediately after the harvest. After, strawberries are fertilized and irrigated in order to grow strong foliage before winter comes.

On a cold winter day strawberries may wither and die or freeze. If there is no snow to protect them, strawberry bushes either freeze deeply or wither and die once the temperature comes into -15, – 18 ° C. Strawberry roots may freeze in the soil which contains the temperature of – 8 ° C. Meanwhile under the cover of 20-30 centimeters of snow they can withstand temperature as low as -25 °, -30 ° C. That is why if there is no snow and the air temperature falls and stays below zero degrees for a week and more, strawberries should be put round with manure and straws, leaves or peat. In rows and gaps between them mulch should be placed in layers as thick as 5 centimeters. To protect strawberries from sweltering in spring, the manure should be removed while the ground is still frozen. The other kind of mulch is less dangerous for strawberries therefore it can be removed and replaced later on in spring.

Lifetime of Strawberry Patch

Strawberries can be grown in one place for four years. Their yield increases until the third year and on the fourth it starts to decline.

In some places abroad strawberries are grown for one or two years. Young patches of strawberry tend to produce bigger berries and healthier plants. Besides, the first-year strawberry fruit ripen earlier than those of older. When growing strawberries in such way, it is advisable to choose early varieties and do not delay the planting of seedlings to later than 15^th of August. The seedlings should also be planted within the distance of 30-40×10-15 centimeters. Next year, after harvesting is done, the patch is either exterminated or ploughed in every second row of strawberries for the purpose of using it for another one year.

Berry Picking

When the weather conditions are warm, berries can be harvested every other day; if it is cold – every two days. During rainy weather it is advisable to pick berries every day to lessen the occurrence of gray mold on them. When berries are supposed to be consumed on the spot we pick them according to the characteristics that are common for its breed in terms of color; while when picking the ones that are expected to continue their journey we choose those that are lighter in color. While picking strawberries make sure to pluck them with cup and choose to either include or discard loose stalks that are in length of few millimeters; do not mix breeds. Berries then should be harvested and shipped in baskets of 2 -2.5 kg capacity, which should be filled up to the top without accumulation. Picked berries must soon be hidden from the sun and rain and preferably consumed on the same day.

Strawberry Cultivation in Greenhouses

In Europe and other continents many strawberries are cultivated in greenhouses, especially in the Netherlands, Italy, Belgium and Japan. The cultivation of early berries is increasing in England, France, Bulgaria and Poland too.

Strawberries are usually grown in either various greenhouses covered with different-sized glass and coated with synthetic film, or tunnels and the seedbed. Greenhouses can be heated and non-heated, with additional illumination and without it, permanently installed and transportable structures. The type of a greenhouse is chosen depending on when you want to have berries.

The easiest to make are small-scale plastic shelters – tunnels. They shall be consistent strawberries that are grown in them start to ripen earlier on the average of 10-12 days and produce higher yields than those grown outdoors. Usually tunnels are made 60-100 cm in their width and 50-60 cm in height. When strawberries are planted in one line tunnels are made more narrow while when planting in two or three rows – wider.

When planting a single row, gaps of 80-100 cm between rows and gaps of 10-20 cm between plants must be left. Double-row strip method can be used when planting strawberries according to such scheme: the distance between the bands – 80-100 cm, the distance between rows in a band – 130-45 cm, and the distance of 20 cm between plant rows. When growing strawberries according to triple-row strip method the distance between rows and in a row itself is similar. However, the latter method is less advisable because the more plants are fit into 1 m², the greater possibility of the gray mold spreading on them is.

For making tunnels 4-6 mm thick wire is suited as well as wicker or 20 mm diameter plastic tubes which embody a wall 3 mm thick. The film may be 80-100 microns thick, solid or perforated.

Pipes, wire or wicker are folded into an arc and plunged into the ground 20-25 cm deep every one meter. The first and the last arc have stakes hammered near them at the same level as hoops. Stakes then have a string tied to them, which helps to reinforce the top of the roll cage. When the film is put, one of its longitudinal edges can be attached to the ground by pouring soil over it, and another – by putting wooden planks or wire (rope) on it and fastening the rest to the ground by hooks. Film ends then are tied with a string and fixed to the poles which are nailed near the ends of the tunnel. The already fixed film then is attached from the top with arcs, which should be plunged together every 2-3 meters.
Strawberries should be covered with film by the arrival of early spring when the snow has finished melting. The best time for pinning hoops to the ground is autumn or early spring as the ground is still frozen in spring.

On a sunny day when the temperature along the Meadow rises up to 30 ° C, tunnels have to be ventilated. During the flowering of strawberries, if a film that covers them is non-perforated, on daytime the sides of the tunnels must be exposed too in order for the blossoms to be pollinated better. Once berries start to mature, they get accustomed to natural conditions. To protect plants from drying out (burn) film is taken off at night, while during the day it is put back on again. After 2-3 days it can be completely removed.
If weather conditions are very adverse (cold weather, rain) and bees do not fly the flowers need to be pollinated artificially by striking through the plants with brushes, film or the like.

From many strawberry varieties which are more than 600, only few are suitable to plant under film in shelters.

A so-called “vertical” way of growing strawberries in greenhouses is worth a mention too. In Italy for “vertically” grown strawberries plastic cups with special “pockets” in which strawberries are planted are used. Cups are constructed on top of one another to form a vertical 2-meter tower. You can use polyethylene bags and other equipment, too. While growing strawberries using a “vertical” method, in 1m² area you can plant 70-80 plants instead of 6-10. Thus, increase the yield in the greenhouse for 6-7

times, getting 12-14 kg / m of berries.