June monthly garden work

Category: Articles post

Author: Garden

June is the first month of summer. All plants in the garden is growing very fast, but there is only few that blooms. This year fruit trees cuttings have grown longer, new leaves are spreading. Fruit trees and berry bushes now need light, water and heat very much. And they need nutrients even more. And if the gardeners can’t control the heat, they can make shore there are enough water and nutrients. The dry soil is irrigated as deep as possible, that the deeper roots would be able to take water. It’s useful to irrigate smaller shrubs and saplings with tan slurry. Before the watering they are diluted 5-7 times, and without them – in 10 1 water are added 30 to 50 g of urea or 50 g of ammonium nitrate. Around the tree (cluster) shallow groove is excavated using garden fork, and it’s poured with this fertilizer. Then, when fertilizer is absorbed, soil is smoothed and weeds are pulled out because they took too many nutrients, the plants are wasted by them. Now fruit fertilization through the leaves using nitrogen fertilizer really increased. But this is done when the trees grow poorly, or you want to delete sprouting scab spores. The literature indicates that 0.3 percent urea solution (30 g of urea in 10 1 water) sprayed trees before it comes into their young leaves are protected from scab. But these trees should be sprayed with fertilizer 20 hours after the rain. Later, when leafs get bigger, concentration is increased till 0, 4-0, 5 percent. (40- 50 g of urea in 10 1 water). For the first time trees are sprayed after the fruit trees finish blooming. At this time of the fertilization can be added a little boric acid to the solution (one are of garden about 6 g). This boric acid completely compensated boron deficiency.

Intelligently spraying the fruit trees with nitrogen fertilizers and maintaining cleanliness and order in the garden, whole fruit can be grown without fungicides. Well, if these measures fail, then Garden (also after the rain) is sprayed with chemicals. Gooseberries which are sick with trails are sprayed with 0.5 percent calcined soda solution, added some economical soap.
There’s a lot of work in strawberry patch. Strawberries sprouts are inspected. Unbecoming (a weed) are pulled out of beds, as well as those mustache, of which we will not collect sprout for propagation. Strawberries are propagated only from the fertile and healthy sprouts mustache. Therefore, these sprouts are marked with pole and allowed to grow their mustache to form rosettes. Scheduled for a new place for growing strawberries in advance sets the soil.

And how you should prepare the ground, if you had just got the garden plot? There should be no rush. Everything should be done intentionally, consistently. First of all the ground should smoothed, all the stones should be elected, you should determine the soil composition and acidity. To the sandy garden clay must be brought, and to the clayey garden sand and peat are brought. Prepare the manure and peat compost, buy fertilizer and fertilize a lot, plow the land deep (up to 50 cm). Lay out the plot, think about the location construction of buildings, where will be rest area, garden. Saplings and the berry-bushes must be planted by tribesmen separated, a young garden can grow more strawberries, raspberries can be planted.

Finish seeding all the vegetables. When rye (June 5-17 ) and the simple thorns (June 7-22 ) starts blooming all vegetable that likes heat sprouts are planted. During the first decade the medium-emergence cabbage are planted. Leafy vegetables of early sowings have grown crops and for the late harvest is time to sow them again. At the beginning of the month beets and carrots can still be sown for storing in winter. Sow radish for storage in winter, cauliflowers for second harvest. Most of the time is given to vegetable maintenance work. It would be a thinning and replanting, soil loosening and weeding, watering, additional fertilization, the fight against diseases and pests, and other maintenance work. In June, late frosts can still come, which may cause significant damage, especially for heat loving vegetables.

Both thinned out and replanted vegetables must be watered and this work must be repeated, especially in dry weather. Depending on biological properties of vegetables soil is loosen in varying depth. Root-crop vegetables, which roots is in skin-depth in the beginning, and when the formation of roots continues, goes deep, loosening soil begins in the upper layer of buds about 5 cm depth, while roots ends growing up the soil is loosening to 15 cm depth. Cucumber and cabbage vegetables soil loosening begins in deeper depth and when the root system expands to arable layer, soil loosening ends in upper arable layer to 5 cm depth.

Early Cabbages and cauliflowers are forming loafs and heads, so they need plenty of water and nutrients. They can be irrigated using fertilizer solution, 10 1 of water with 30 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride and 80 g of superphosphate. The solution is suitable for beetroot and tomatoes too. For cucumbers and other vegetables, fertilizer is reduced by half. Those cauliflowers heads which has started the formation must be covered using stave in and recurve sheets. In the case of tomatoes, they are tethered to a pole on the second hot. Constantly break of their shoots, not giving them a strong fork. Support cartels are made from wickers or nesters for convolvulaceous beans and peas. Onions, which began to shape bulbs, should not be watered. When the lush foliage encloses the soil surface vegetables soil loosening must be stop. Potatoes are accumulated 2-3 times. The last time they are accumulated before the haulms cover the interbeds. Tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbages are earthed too. The vegetables, which were not fertilized in spring with mineral fertilizers and they are growing in barren soil, in addition are fertilized by using the mineral fertilizers. All garden plant debris should be digested with peat, manure, mineral fertilizers. Compost pile should be spaded every mount. If we have slurry, pour them into the pile, because they accelerate the digestion of vegetable waste. Supervise the compost pile – because it can grow with weeds.

Vegetables grown in the glasshouses are irrigated, ventilated and fertilized by using the addition fertilizers. Hotbed windows and even glass in a greenhouse can be bleached with lime, then the temperature drops. Tomatoes are irrigated less frequently, but abundant, preferably it’s done before noon. Temperature is maintained at 15-30 ° C. Cucumbers need less ventilation, and they grow better in more wet and muggy air than tomatoes. It’s best to pour them in the noontime. Let us not forget that most varieties of cucumbers and their hybrids are pollinated by bees. Greenhouse’s vegetables are irrigated with similar or slightly weaker level fertilizer solution then field vegetables.

Considerable damage to vegetable crops is done by pests, and some of the disease does enter into a stronger expression. It is therefore necessary to comply with the so-called prophylactic or phytosanitary rules. Remove stronger sick plant organs or whole of the plant damaged with disease, supervise that there would no origins of the disease left in the soil, and that they would not be transmitted through the used gear, other measures, and that we would not transfer them by ourselves. In June, more damage is done by such pest as brassica and onion fly. We use pest repellent and eliminating measures, as well as in May.

In June, Gladioli are additional fertilized, at first using ammonium nitrate (40 g / m 2) and when there are grown 4-5 leafs they are fertilized using potassium nitrate or potassium salt (40 g / m 2). When the emergence of flower buds starts, they are fertilized with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers (30-40 g/m2). Red blooming sage, begonias, celosia and other frost-sensitive flowers are planted in the flower garden, because in June the first decade of the risk of frost is really small. This month the majority of bulb flowers complete blooming, these flowers are replaced by annual flowers. Finalize flowers bloom and the Biennial flowers: pansy, forget- it’s also replaced by summer flowers: marigold, begonias, and others.

Don’t forget to seed the two-yearly flowers: orphans, forget-me-shiver carnations fox-gloves, bells and others. Their sprouts will grow till the autumn and will be perfect to change flowers or the rings. Bells, pansy are planted in beds or the seedbed at the end of June. Densely sprouted shoots needs to be thinned out. The plants are planted in a permanent place in September in 15 × 20 cm distance, and the bells and Turkish carnations in 15 x 25 cm distance.

Less common ornamental shrubs can replicated by cuttings by ourselves. Reproduction can be done in beds, sealed with a polyethylene film, or hotbeds. In beds and inspects the fertile land layer are poured over by 3 cm layer of clean river sand. Coarse sand is more suitable. Substrate is moistened and prepared cuttings are planted.

Cuttings harvested 10-15 cm in length depending on the plant species. They are carried out pursuant to 2 cm depth. Planted Cuttings are sprayed and covered up using polythene film. Most of the cuttings roots after 2-3 weeks. In the first year they are left in reproduction bed for winter. They should only be planted in the spring.

Peony blossom abundantly if they are well-irrigated at least once a week. Especially watering is useful during the formation of flower buds, during and after flowering, when the peony store forces for flowering the following year. It’s often complained that peony stow buds, but don’t blossom. Part of the shoots get dark, after some time they whiter up. Sick part of the plant must be immediately removed, plants are sprayed with 0.3 percent. fundazol solution. The disease is spreading more in moist and warm spring and summer. It’s useful to water sick peony at least twice a week with potassium permanganate solution. Don’t fertilize peony with nitrogen fertilizers too much.

In June it’s recommended to spray paniculate phlox with 0.3 percent fundazol solution, this will help prevent mildew. Without fundazol, you can spray them with a solution of laundry detergent. Take three handful of washing powder into 10 liters of water. The spraying is repeated after two weeks. Such preventive spraying will prevent mildew from spreading.

If clematis heads drops and leaves get brown, as soon as possible you need to spray them with 1 percent bordeaux liquid, or 0.5 percent zineb solution. If the clematis droop was observed last year, without waiting for signs of disease spray them with mentioned products in June. Spraying has to be repeated several times. Acidic soil is conducive to the spread of these diseases. So it is useful to water clematis soil at least once using lime milk.

At the end of June the early tulips, Jacinta, saffron, snowdrops, puschkinias are excavated only if there is need to replicate them. After all, they may grow unexcavated in one place: muscari, snowdrop for 5-7 years, others for 3 – 4 years.
Do not forget to choose erythronium seeds. Sown in June, they sprouts only in the following spring. Erythronium is multiplied using the fresh seeds.